What looks like Pipeline, goes both left and right, and gets big wave surfers all squirley like Mexican jumping beans? Tis the season of Puerto Escondido – the Mexican Pipeline located in Oaxaca – and oh mi Dios, has it been good.
Big wave surfers made the journey south of the border this May as soon as the storm charts lit up with a few pulsing swells brewing in the South Pacific Ocean. The back-to-back consistency has allowed for Surf Channel photographers to get the goods as big wave chargers braved the lineup.
If there is a wave south of the border comparable to the majestic left at Pipe, it would have to be Puerto. The first big swell hit this month in perfect form.
Two men on a mission, North Shore of O’ahu residents Trevor Sven Carlson and Doug Falter flew down chasing big waves. One a big wave junky, and the other a professional water photographer, their dreamy vision of México seemed too good to be true. So we caught up with the boys to hear about the chase.
Puerto Escondido is a small port and tourist center in the municipality of San Pedro Mixtepec. Prior to the 1930s, no real town existed.
“This morning, Puerto Escondido was 8-10 feet with a few 12 ft+ sets and offshore till noon. The locals were calling it the biggest day of this new season so far,” California-born Trevor Sven Carlson described to The Surf Channel.
“I rode a 7’6” round nose fun gun, but I felt like I could have been on my 9’6” by then end of my session. I caught four waves and made two of them after five hours of paddling around in the current,” Carlson said.
Check out the photo sequence captured May 9th, 2014 by Central Surf Shop:
Photo sequence by Central Surf Shop.
“Eventually I got caught inside on the set of the day and went over backwards duck diving. Then the next wave broke thirty feet in front of me… I vividly remember the whitewater was so tall in that moment I couldn’t tell where the whitewater ended and the cloudy sky began,” Carlson described.
“Usually, I would take my leash off when I’m caught in side here at Puerto to save the board, but in this moment i just wanted something still attached to my ankle so I would eventually find the surface.”
“Eventually I made it to the beach and walked back to my hotel Casa de Dan for lunch and ping-pong. Today was another epic day, and it looks like we have two more weeks of swell coming!”
Tis the season for Puerto Escondido…