Australia’s Jeff Rowley flew home to paddle into a 19ft swell that struck The Bombie just last week. Rowley was using pure man power on his 4″ thick Channel Islands 11’0″. With not much luck with big waves in OZ this past year, Rowley was in Indonesia when he first spotted the swell on the charts and couldn’t fathom missing it. As the swell filled in after lunch, Rowley hit the lineup during the narrow window of rapidly growing waves and offshore winds.
“The wave looks like Mavericks being a cold water peak, although it’s a lot more spread out lineup – more of a hunting ground,” said Rowley. “Mavs is a slab that hits the same exact spot. I rode the 11’0 so I could cover more ground.”
The big wave rider from Torquay took on the big steep waves by throwing himself over the edge as he paddled into each one.
“I grew up surfing this kind of wave – cold water and long thick walls. Australia has a lot of fairly isolated big waves, with deep water that will hold you down for a long time if you make a mistake. Im lucky to have experience in those kind of waves and be able to draw on it at places like Jaws.”
Australian Pipe Master and Jeff Rowley surfing The Bombie at 19 ft, November 2013., Tom Carroll, had the scare of his life while surfing Cow Bombie, the reef break off Margaret River. Listen to his tow partner, Clarke-Jones, as he describes where he travels mentally during the grueling wipeouts he experiences as a big waves surfer.
Check out more big wave surfing from Storm Surfers!