Hey surfers of the internet and I mean that in the most literal sense. I’m a 25-year-old surfer from Ventura, California and have been prompted to share with all of you a bit about myself and where I currently reside… so here goes nothing.
If you were to have me point out Ventura on a map, I would direct you somewhere along the shoreline just below Santa Barbara because almost EVERYONE is familiar with the County of Santa Barbara.
Ventura is home to surfers and sailors, brew masters and beer lovers, antique shop and small business owners, Patagonia and REI employees, and one of the most notorious point breaks in central California, C-Street. The community is truly something special and I can say with confidence that I’m fortunate enough to have learned to surf here.
I couldn’t even tell you the exact age I started surfing, but what I can tell you is, once I started I never stopped. Being in the water was always my favorite activity as a kid. With sun bleached hair and salty skin, you couldn’t drag me out of the ocean if you tried.
At a young age, I’ve always had what my dad called “a natural athletic ability” but surfing felt like a completely foreign language to me. It was by far one of the hardest sports for me to perfect (and I’m still perfecting). I couldn’t get my rhythm and the movement of the ocean down. It was incredibly frustrating, but for whatever reason… I kept trying.
To this day I’m not sure what kept me coming back. Maybe it was my fascination with the ocean or my fear of failure, but I wanted to be a surfer and didn’t stop until I was. I vividly remember the day it all clicked, the day Mother Nature and I worked in unison with one another, the day I considered myself a surfer.
At this time I was already standing up and surfing, but I was never content riding white wash. This was the day I felt connected with the ocean, timed my takeoff, and rode the face of an open wave. To this day, I’ve never felt anything quite as freeing as that feeling. It was magical to be in perfect harmony with the water, rapidly moving along an element in motion.
That alone is one of the MANY reasons surfing means so much to me. The ocean has always been my “happy place” and surfing is just another way for me to spend more time out at sea.