When the instagram about this project came up, I just realized how much surfing has really influenced my adult life.
I have a group of girlfriends that I spent many years doing annual girls trips with until they got married and had kids. I have friends that I travel with now who are single women of all ages; I have boyfriends who ultimately were never going to work because they didn’t surf. I have memories of getting to airports in Hawaii and San Diego, just in time, with sand between my toes because I surfed until the last possible minute; I have stories of changing into bikinis while stuck in traffic on the 405; I have stories of volunteering with Jessie Billauer’s “they will surf again” events; I have stories about surfing with my pager in my wetsuit when I was on call; stories about surfing in Cayucos with my dog running up and down the beach following me; stories about surfing with kids in Haiti when I go down for a service trip each year; surfing with pro-surfers and pro-snowboarders.
I am 47 and not, by ANY stretch, a great surfer, but surfing is part of me and ultimately, any day I get in the water is better than a day that I don’t.