The surf community has lost a great man. Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz was a surfing pioneer who touched the lives of many through his great storytelling, epic journeys and profound literature. He passed away last night, November 10th, at the age of 93.
On July 7th, 2014 just months before he passed, Paskowitz sat down with The Inertia to discuss his thoughts on death and happiness.
“All of my life, I have been afraid of dying… Now that I’m passed 88, I don’t give a sh*t. I am ready to die,” he exclaimed with a smile.
Video by The Inertia
The author of Surfing and Health, Doc said that “some of the most profound realizations about health were derived not from medicine, but from surfing.”
An intimate night of celebration honored Big Wave World Tour 2012/2013 champion, Greg Long. The San Clemente local accepted his award and title with an emotional speech in front of friends, family and fellow big wave riders at the Surfing Heritage & Culture Center (SHACC). Dr. Dorian Paskowitz also spoked, directing his attention to the big wave surfer.
“You were a brave man to ride those big waves; you’re a different breed than us ordinary people…
“You men who ride the big waves can change the world. In fact, you’re the only ones that can change the world. Go out and do it.”
“You are an inspiration,” Dr. Paskowitz told Long. “When I grow up, I wanna be like you.
“You who ride the big waves, you’re a different breed. You are not like us normal people. You are a man of God, and that may sound rather strange, but you go only where God guides you even though you may not want to, but you go there and you learn how to stay there and you learn how to prosper there. And one of the prosperities that you have learned is a message from the waves themselves.
“That message makes you more than us ordinary human beings. It’s a message that you should listen to.”
Rest In Paradise, Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz. The Surf Channel sends our condolences to friends and family.