Hawaiian Kai Lenny knew this would be “one of those days you want to remember for a while.”
Jaws’ first big wave swell of the season bestowed big wave surfers Ian Walsh, Shane Dorian, Kai Lenny and other daring surfers picturesque conditions at Pe’ahi, Maui. Red Bull captured this memorable two-day surf session in their web series, “Positively Kai.”
Day one’s conditions were ideal; the water was smooth, waves were peaking and there was no wind. For those brave enough to drop in, the conditions allowed for huge barrels.
Shane Dorian provided the defining moment of day one when he dropped into a 60-foot face. Dorian “locked in to what seemed to be a 50 foot barrel,” Lenny said, the ride turned into “one of the best barrels ever ridden at Jaws – period.”
On the second day, conditions stayed strong. Lenny discovered on day one he mostly caught the small waves and decided from then on he would “put himself in that position that the best guys are putting themselves in.”
In an ill-fated attempt, Lenny was pummeled after going airborne. The fall felt like he “fell from a roof” before being pounded by five set waves on his head. Surviving that insane wipeout gave Lenny newfound confidence.
He realized before that day he was not ready to get barreled at Jaws. Today, however, was different. Lenny caught his first barrel that was so massive, “probably five guys could pull in together and make it.”
- Ian Walsh rides big waves at Jaws, Pe’ahi in October 2012. Photo: Fred Pompermayer/Red Bull
This insane two-day surf session at Jaws was truly memorable with the picturesque conditions, insane wipeouts and huge barrels!