Every week during the North Shore winter season, The Surf Channel will feature a photo that takes our breath away. As the Christmas swell brought in many gifts for lucky surfers on the Hawaiian island of Oahu, there was a crew of big wave surfers brave enough to face the North Shore’s Rockpiles. With the rising swell from the day before, December 22nd marked a day of epic proportions as big wave chargers waxed up and prayed for the ride of the winter. Rockpiles tends to be best in big swell, and this was no exception. This gnarly left was chosen over Pipe due to its enormous size and spacious lineup – all but five surfers were brave enough to challenge her at its peak. Guys like Mark Healy, Ricardo dos Santos and Dennis Tihara were in the lineup waiting patiently for the perfect wave.
Pictured below is Gabriel Pastori, the big wave Brazilian charger on the Body Glove team, who dropped into this hollow beast straight-legged and confident, riding all the way out and coming home to a 10-photo sequence… To be revealed later today. Here is a sneak peak at big Rockpiles, The Surf Channel Photo of the Week:
“I had surfed Rockpiles before, but never at this size. It was a great experience!” Pastori told The Surf Channel. “I was surfing a 7’7” surfboard shaped by Joca Secco, who has been my shaper for many years now and always makes great boards. I was in the company of some friends on the outside, and the waves were big and heavy. I was lucky to catch this wave you see in the photo; it was awesome. I surfed for two hours caught three waves, but this was without a doubt the best one.”
“Eu já tinha surfado Rockpiles mas não com esse tamanho. Foi uma experiencia muito boa!” Pastori falou para Surf Channel. “Usei uma prancha 7,7” shepeada pelo Joca Secco, que é meu shaper há muitos anos e sempre faz pranchas muito boas. Estava na companhia de alguns amigos no outside e as ondas estavam bem grande e pesada. Tive sorte de pegar essa onda da foto que foi muito boa. Surfei durante umas duas horas e peguei três ondas, mas essa foi sem dúvida a melhor delas.”
Pastori’s quiver ready for Hawaiian swell. Photo: Gabriel Pastori’s Facebook
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