Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long, is a compelling film directed by Richard Yelland of Curtis Birch Inc. that delves deep into the emotional strength and immense preparation that big wave surfing requires of its riders. The documentary film was recently chosen to play at the Maui Film Festival and will screen on Thursday, June 13th in Wailea.
San Clemente native, Greg Long, is one of the bravest surfers of all time and Yelland’s film leads viewers through the athlete’s every day life as he prepares for swells that define not only his career as a professional big wave surfer, but also his character when his life is put on the line each time he paddles into a massive lineup. Crowned Big Wave World Tour Champion for the 2012 season, Long has overcome the memory of his near-drowning experience this year when he was hospitalized after suffering a three-wave hold down at Cortes Bank.
“Sine Qua Non” is a Latin phrase that roughly means, “without which, [there] is nothing,” and there is no better phrase to describe Longs’ ambition and dedication to his passion for braving some of the biggest waves in the world.
As Yelland describes, “What’s compelling about Greg Long’s story is that it goes beyond surfing… it’s about realizing your extreme passion and pursuing it without question. If you know what you can’t live without, then you will chase your dreams without compromise. In that regard, you cannot fail- no matter the consequences.”
The Inertia founder and producer of Sine Qua Non, Zach Weisberg, wanted to launch a series of documentary films that tell the best surfing stories through themes that all people could relate to, and he did just that.
Weisberg spoke on Longs’ character by commenting, “the intensity with which he describes his missions, the careful planning and precautions he takes leading up to big-wave sessions, and the relentless passion he communicates for pushing the boundaries of what is humanly possible are self evident… He can’t live without it.”